Garden Care
by the Season
Hall County Agribusiness of the Year 2007
- Full Bloom Nursery-
6662 Holly Springs Rd.
(Hwy 283) Clermont Georgia, 30527
) Phone: 770.842.2345
Fax: 770-983-7575
+ Email Us
Photo: from left: Billy Skaggs
(Hall County
Extension Director)
Kellie and Tim Bowen
(Owners of Full Bloom Nursery)
“Your garden will do for you in proportion to
what you do for it”.
Award
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"A callused palm and dirty fingernails precede a Green Thumb."
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Gardening and laughing are two of the best things in life you can do to promote good health and a sense of well being.
Vegetable Gardening in the South
Everyone who has ever eaten a sun-ripened homegrown tomato straight from the vine knows that it tastes better than any tomato from the grocery store. Tomatoes are just the beginning- once you start growing your own food, you will enjoy freshness and flavor unlike anything you've experienced. That's because fruits and vegetables that have been picked and then shipped long distances have already begun to lose their nutritional value and flavor.
People who grow a garden year after year do it for the gratification of growing their own great tasting food and the rewards of being outdoors and active. The satisfaction of bringing in armloads of a variety of food from a lush healthy garden is good for the soul and your diet.
Growing vegetables in Georgia can be challenging due to clay soils, insects and diseases, and unpredictable weather. But the rewards far outweigh these problems. Many people who are intimidated by the prospect of growing food become skilled gardeners once they give it a try.
Our goal is to provide you with common sense advice that will help you to grow your own food with ease. Trial & error and practice are required but lead to success and a rewarding sense of accomplishment. Fell free to hit the "contact us" button a the top of the page if you need help with your garden. The following tips are specific for gardening in our Georgia climate.
Tips:
- September is the month to begin the preparing and planting of the fall vegetable garden. Prepare the soil by adding rich organic matter like compost or cow manure to give your plants the best start possible. The sooner you start this step, the better your soil will get. Then you'll be ready to plant the garden. For a list of things to plant, click here: Fall vegetable garden planting schedule
- Have the garden soil tilled, amended and prepared for planting BEFORE you buy the plants. A soil test is worth its weight in gold because it takes all the guesswork out of the pH and fertility needs. Most vegetables prefer a pH of slightly acidic, in the 6.5 range. Having the garden prepared for planting ahead of time saves your plants from sitting in their flats in the yard, waiting for you to plant them.
- Think small. Don't plant more than you can care for. When August gets here and your (too big) plot is cranking out food faster than you can pick it, you'll realize why we say this! If you're new to gardening, start off with a garden no larger than 10' X 10.' You can always expand later if you can't get enough of those fresh, tasty vegetables.
- Choose a location that receives as much sun as possible throughout the day, at least 8 hours of direct sun. Keep the garden away from nearby tree roots and be sure to locate it near a source of water.
- The condition of your soil is very important. Without good soil, your garden will have difficulty thriving because organic matter is vital for healthy vegetable gardens. If your soil does not contain sufficient amounts of organic material, then you will have to work some into it using compost or manure. Compost helps improve texture, fertility, and drainage of our sticky clay soil. Add grass clippings to the soil in the garden throughout the summer; they improve the fertility of the soil and give off nitrogen as they break down. Just don't add thick layers that would take longer to break down.
- Plant in dedicated beds, not rows. Creating permanent beds that you amend and build up each year makes for great soil that drains well, allowing you to plant your vegetables closer together so you have more produce in less square footage. This method cuts down on watering, weeding, and fertilizing. Leaving permanent pathways that you mulch between the beds cuts down on weeds and prevents compaction of the soil where the plants are growing. A good layout is 4 ft wide growing beds of whatever length suits your needs. Having mulched paths between permanent beds looks good, too.
- Keep your plants well watered. Allowing vegetable plants to dry out will stress them and decrease production. Soaker hoses are a very efficient way to put water right at the roots. Another method is to use gallon jugs. Poke a few holes in the bottom of old, empty gallon jugs and bury them two-thirds of the way into the ground next to or between plants. Leave the top exposed and fill with water. The water will seep slowly into the ground, going directly to the plants. Keep the lid on the jugs so they don't fill with soil or debris. And remember- ALL edible plants are exempt from watering restrictions- you can water them whenever they need it. It's a state law!
- To add interest and variety to your vegetable garden, add flowers and herbs. They not only make your vegetable garden interesting, they can attract beneficial insects to the garden while deterring others. Flowers and herbs that have strong odors, such as marigolds and garlic, actually can repel pests from your garden and incorporating these plants with vegetables also can create beautiful borders and edgings. Many vegetables make wonderful border plants and can be grown for ornamental purposes. Think chives, kale, leaf lettuce, oregano, and purple basil, just to name a few.
- Protect your plants from harsh winds. Cold winds will stunt growth and hot winds will dry the soil and harm the plants. If you don't have a natural sunny protected corner in your garden, prepare a windbreak of garden lattice or plant vines on a fence.
Helpful Links and Resources:
Organic Pest ControlUGA Vegetable Gardening PublicationsTomato Growers Supply Company- an excellent reference for varieties and types of tomatoes such as: paste, beefsteak, cherry, early season.
Fruits & Berries
The recipes above are just a few examples of all the creative and delicious ways you can use fresh fruit in meals. The dormant season is THE time to plant edibles such as blueberries, grapes, figs, fruit trees, etc. Plants need time to root in and become established BEFORE they begin to
flower & produce fruit.
Blueberries, Blackberries, & Raspberries
Selecting and Preparing a Planting Site
Choose a site with full sunlight and protection from strong winds. Avoid low areas with poor drainage; berries prefer a well-drained, sandy loam soil, rich in organic matter. Heavy clay soils should be avoided, but may be made more suitable for berries by adding organic matter such as compost, rotted or aged manure, and/or rotted leaves. Exposed areas that are prone to early frosts can reduce yields because berries bloom early and are subject to early freezes that may kill the blooms. Have your soil tested to determine its pH and fertility status and follow the recommendations of your soil test results. Unlike many other garden crops, blueberries require an acidic soil for good growth. The soil pH should be within the range of 4.5 to 5.2 for blueberries, so NEVER add lime. Soil tests are available through your counties Cooperative Extension Office. Of all the different types of edible plants you can grow in your yard, berries are among the easiest and carefree because they are not plagued by the insects and diseases that attack fruit trees.
Blueberries
There are two native species and one hybrid species of blueberries that are commonly grown in North America: Northern Highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum); Southern Highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum hybrids); and Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei).
Here in our zone 7 & 8 climate, cultivars of native Rabbiteye blueberries do best. Highbush blueberries will often be found in big chain stores but should not be planted here as they don't like our hot, humid summers.
Plant 2 or more varieties for best pollination. We carry Premier, Tifblue, Climax, and Brightwell cultivars of Rabbiteye blueberries.
Blackberries
We offer 2 varieties of thornless (that's right, thornless!) blackberries: Arapaho & Apache. They are self-supporting and don't need trellising. Not to mention delicious!
Apache: jumbo sized, sweet fruits ripen mid to late June.
Arapaho: also has jumbo, sweet fruits that ripen early; the last of May.
Planting both will extend the harvest.
Dorman Red Raspberry
The Dorman Red Raspberry is ever-bearing, beginning in June and lasting until frost, and trails along the ground, usually requiring some type of staking to prevent berries from touching the ground. Dorman Red is vigorous and productive in the deep South, where heat and heavy humidity can adversely affect the success of growing other varieties.
Figs
Did You Know?......
The fig is believed to be indigenous to western Asia and to have been distributed by man
throughout the Mediterranean area.
Remnants of figs have been found in excavations of sites traced to at least 5,000 B.C.!
Figs require full sun all day to ripen palatable fruits. Trees become enormous, and will shade out anything growing beneath. Repeated pruning to control size causes loss of crop. Grow in the warmest location, against a sunny wall or in a heat trap. Fully dormant trees are hardy to 12° - 15° F, but plants in active growth can be damaged at 30° F. Fig plants killed to the ground will often re-sprout from the roots. Chilling requirements for the fig are less than 300 hours.
Foliage: Fig leaves are bright green and in summer their foliage lends a beautiful tropical feeling. The flowers are all female and need no cross pollination.
Fruits: bears a first crop in the spring on last season's growth. The second crop is borne in the fall on the new growth and is known as the main crop. In cold climates the first crop is often destroyed
by spring frosts.
Pruning: Fig trees are productive with or without heavy pruning. It is essential only during the initial years. Since the crop is borne on terminals of previous year's wood, once the tree form is established, avoid heavy winter pruning, which causes loss of the following year's crop. It is better to prune immediately after the main crop is harvested, or with late-ripening cultivars, summer prune half the branches and prune the remainder the following summer.
Fertilization: Regular fertilizing of figs is usually unnecessary. Excess nitrogen encourages rank growth at the expense of fruit production, and the fruit that is produced often ripens improperly, if at all. As a general rule, fertilize fig trees if the branches grew less than a foot the previous year. Apply a total of 1/2 - 1 pound of actual nitrogen, divided into three or four applications beginning in late winter or early spring
and ending in July.
Frost Protection: In borderline climates, figs can be grown out of doors if they are given frost protection. Brown Turkey and Celeste cultivars are some of the best choices. Plant against a wall or structure, which provides some heat by radiation. Or grow as a bush, pruning the trunk to near ground level at the end of the second year.
Harvest: Figs must be allowed to ripen fully on the tree before they are picked. They will not ripen if picked when immature. A ripe fruit will be slightly soft and starting to bend at the neck. Harvest the fruit gently to avoid bruising. Fresh figs do not keep well and can be stored in the refrigerator for only 2 - 3 days. Figs are delicious when dried. They take 4 - 5 days to dry in the sun and 10 -12 hours in a dehydrator. Dried figs can be stored for six to eight months.
We offer:
Brown Turkey- medium, skin is purplish brown, flesh pinkish amber. Good flavor. Best when fresh. Small, hardy, vigorous tree. Prune severely for heaviest main crop.
Celeste- small to medium, skin is light violet to violet-brown, flesh reddish amber. Very sweet, usually dried. Tightly closed eye, good for Southeast. Small, productive, hardy.
Fruit Trees
Apples, peaches, pears, and plums are adapted to most areas of north Georgia. Regardless of where you live, if you are not willing to provide timely care for your trees and fruit, then you might be happier in years to come if you choose plants that require less care.
Sunlight, and plenty of it, is a key to increasing fruit production. Pick an area where the trees will be in the sun most or all of the day. The early morning sun is particularly important because it dries the dew from the leaves thereby reducing the incidence of diseases. If the planting site does not get plenty of sun, then you can't expect the best performance
from the tree.
Although fruit trees will grow well in a wide range of soil types, a deep soil of a clay loam is preferred. Fruit trees will not thrive in soil that is poorly drained. In areas of poor drainage, roots will die resulting in stunted growth and eventual death of the tree. Fruit trees will also perform poorly on drought prone soils. Shoot growth can be stunted and fruit size
and quality reduced.
Most fruit trees grow best when the soil pH is near 6.5. Since the natural pH of most Georgia soils is below this level, you will need to incorporate lime before planting to raise the pH to the desired level. You can get information on soil testing and liming recommendations from your county extension office. Periodically (about every 3 years) check your soil pH. The soil test report will indicate if additional liming is required.
The old adage of "you get what you pay for" is an important consideration when buying fruit trees. Often, bargain plants are not healthy or may not be a variety adapted to your area. Buy only trees of recommended varieties from a reliable source.
Before planting, prepare the soil thoroughly by plowing or spading followed by disking or raking to smooth the surface. If you have not adjusted the soil pH to 6.5 previously, liming should be done before you prepare the soil so that the lime will be incorporated. When added to the surface and not plowed in, lime takes much longer to move down into the soil. Lime an area 10' by 10' where each tree will be planted. Similar to lime, phosphorus moves down through the soil slowly and thus should be incorporated, based on soil test results, along with lime before planting. During planting, dig holes large enough to receive the roots freely without cramping or bending from their natural position. Before planting, cut off all broken or mutilated parts of roots with a sharp knife or pruning shears. Keep root pruning to a minimum. Set the plants at the same depth they grew in the nursery pot. Work soil in and around the roots. When the hole is half filled, firm the soil before you finish filling the hole. When the hole is filled, pack the soil firmly. Do not leave a depression around the tree. Also, do not place fertilizer in the planting hole or fertilize immediately after planting. This should only be done after the soil is settled by a drenching rain. When the planting is completed, the graft union should be at least 2 inches above the soil line.
Post-Planting Care
After planting, apply sufficient water to thoroughly soak the soil in the area of the tree roots. This watering will help bring the soil into closer contact with all sides of the roots and eliminate air pockets around the roots.
Keep weeds out of a 3'x 3' area around the tree because they compete with the tree for moisture and nutrients during the growing season. This will also keep mowers away from the trees and reduce trunk damage. Mulching will help control weeds as well as conserve moisture.
Unless properly managed, insects and diseases can seriously damage fruit trees and their crops.
Pests can be controlled with commercial pesticides, and moderate control may be achieved using organic controls. Treatment must be started before problems become severe, causing serious damage or crop loss. It is important to identify pests and diseases accurately so an effective treatment can be selected. Contact your county Cooperative Extension agent for assistance in identifying pests and for recommended control measures. Pest problems can also be reduced through proper sanitation. Remove and burn or bury dead, diseased, and damaged wood and fruit as soon as possible. Also, remove the leaves after they have fallen in autumn. Do not use the leaves as mulch. The infected leaves, wood, and fruit can provide a habitat in which insects and disease-causing organisms can overwinter. By taking time to maintain orchard sanitation, you can reduce insect and disease problems significantly.
Controlling pests and diseases
Fireblight
Fireblight is a destructive, highly infectious and widespread disease caused by the bacterium Erwinia amylovora. Fireblight can be a problem in Georgia and is particularly prevalent in some counties. Fire blight attacks blossoms, leaves, shoots, branches, fruits, and roots. The disease affects plants in the Rosaceae family, which includes apple, plum, cherry, and pear.
Disease Symptoms and Control of Fireblight:
The bark at the base of blighted twigs becomes water soaked, then dark, sunken and dry; cracks may develop at the edge of the sunken area. Young twigs and branches die from the terminal end and appear burned or deep rust colored. Branches may be bent, resembling what is commonly referred to as a “shepherd's crook”. Dead leaves and fruit remain on the branches. Initially the disease often enters the tree through natural openings, especially flowers and wounds in the spring. Once established in the tree, fireblight quickly invades through the current season's growth into older growth.
Fireblight can be spread from diseased to healthy plants by rain, wind, and pruning tools. The bacterium can survive the winter in sunken cankers on infected branches. In spring, the bacteria ooze out of the cankers and attract bees and other insects. Insects also help spread the disease to healthy plants. The bacteria spread rapidly through the plant tissue in warm temperatures (65 degrees F or higher) and humid weather.
During spring and summer, prune out infected branches 8 inches below the damage. Avoid pruning when the plants are wet. Dip pruning tools in 70 percent isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) or 10 percent bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water solution) between each cut. Wash and oil shears when you are finished. These practices avoid spreading the pathogen.
Avoid heavy nitrogen fertilization, especially in summer, when succulent growth is most susceptible to fireblight infection. Avoid splashing water. Chemical control is not always effective and needs to be applied preventively. Therefore, in years when warm, humid, wet weather coincides with flowering and leaf emergence, spray plants with a fungicide containing basic copper sulfate (Kocide) or an antibiotic (Agrimycin) to reduce infection. Applications of Agrimycin need to begin at the start of blooming and continue every 3-4 days during the bloom period. Application of Kocide should begin at bloom and continue every 7 days during bloom. Re-application following rain may be needed.
Bitter Rot Fungus: Symptoms appear first as small, circular, brown spots on both apples and pears. The lesion enlarges and becomes saucer-shaped. The fungus overwinters in mummified fruit and cracks or crevices in bark. Most infections can be traced to a broken limb. Infection normally shows up in mid to late summer. Young fruit are resistant to the fungus. Maximum infection occurs at 85oF and after light rain. Orchard sanitation and a regular spray program are extremely important. Broken limbs should be cut to prevent overwintering of spores in these protected areas.
Scab Fungus: This fungus attacks both the foliage and the fruit of apple trees. It first appears on the leaves as small, dull, smoky areas which with age become olive colored, velvety, and much more visible. On fruit, the lesions are first small, circular, olive green areas which turn dark and scabby. The spots crack open in late stages of development.
Peach Leaf Curl: The peach leaf curl fungus infects leaves, flowers, and fruits. Infected leaves are characterized by puckering, thickening and curling. Diseased leaves become pale yellow to light green and shed after a short time. Fruit and blossoms shed when infected and are seldom observed by growers. Disease development is related to air temperature at the time buds are opening. If surface moisture is present and the air temperature is near 68 degrees F, infection can take place. Temperatures above 86 degrees F and below 40 degrees F inhibit the fungus. After symptoms are visible, control is impossible. Apply a fungicide at the beginning of dormancy and/or just prior to bud break.
Peach Scab: Peach scab, also known as "freckles," is found wherever peaches are grown. It is most apparent on mid-late season varieties. Small spots develop on fruit and are normally concentrated around the stem or shoulder of the fruit. Lesions formed on young twigs serve as a means of overwintering. Primary infection in the spring comes from spores produced in twig cankers formed the previous year. Fruit infection normally occurs after shuck split and 2-4 weeks following. Once infection occurs, 40 to 70 days may elapse before symptoms are visible. Control is by repeated applications of an approved fungicide during the critical period beginning at shuck split.
Codling Moth: The codling moth is one of the most serious fruit feeding apple pests in the world. Apple is the codling moth's preferred host. Larvae are internal fruit feeders. Codling moths feed on apples, pear, quince, peach, plum, and cherry, but in the Southeast they are primarily apple and pear pests. Codling moth larvae injure fruit in two ways. They cause wormy apples and, less often, apple stings. Wormy apples are ruined by internal larval feeding. Stings are down-grading blemishes on the apple surface, the injury left by young larvae that are poisoned before they burrow far below the apple's skin. The codling moth passes the winter as a full-grown larva in a thick silken cocoon. In early to midspring, the larvae pupate. Eggs are laid primarily on leaves near the fruit. Hatched larvae burrow into fruit at the calyx or through the side of the apple. They either feed briefly on the flesh just beneath the skin's surface or burrow directly to the center of the fruit, where they feed on the seeds.
Control of Codling Moth
Insecticidal sprays are directed against the moth, egg, or newly hatched larva. Once a larva is established inside an apple, it is immune to insecticidal sprays.
Successful codling moth control depends on control of the spring moth flight. Insecticides should be applied to coincide with moth flights. Insecticides applied at petal fall and again at first and second cover sprays are generally effective. Problems with codling moth control come from failure to have timely, effective insecticide coverage.
Home Orchard Spray Schedule
Apples & Pears
TimingSpray Product Dormant (bud swell) Combo Oil & Lime Sulphur Spray
Combo Oil & Lime Sulphur SprayPre-pink - Fruit Tree Spray
Fruit Tree Spray Bloom- Fire Blight Spray
Fire Blight SprayPetal Fall (when bees are gone - to prevent insects & diseases) Fruit Tree Spray
Fruit Tree SprayPeaches & Plums
TimingSpray Product Dormant (bud swell) - Combo Oil & Lime Sulphur Spray Pink Tips (before blooms open)- Fruit Tree Spray
Combo Oil & Lime Sulphur Spray Pink Tips (before blooms open)- Fruit Tree Spray Bloom (to prevent brown rot)- Captan
Captan Petal Fall (when bees are gone - to prevent insects & diseases)- Fruit Tree Spray
Fruit Tree Spray2 Weeks later & every 10-14 days until 2 weeks before harvest- Fruit Tree Spray
Fruit Tree Spray We sell & recommend "Fruit Tree Spray"- a combination fruit spray that controls common insects AND diseases on fruits.
Pruning and Training Fruit Trees
The day you plant your trees is the day you begin to prune and train for the future production. Too often backyard growers plant fruit trees and leave them untended for several years. This neglect causes poor growth and delayed fruiting.
The purpose of pruning a young tree is to control its shape by developing a strong, well-balanced framework of scaffold branches. Remove unwanted branches or cut them back early to avoid the necessity of large cuts in later years. Prune in late winter. Winter pruning of fruit trees consists of removing undesirable limbs as well as tipping terminals to encourage branching. Similar pruning can be performed in the summer and is most beneficial if done in early June and early August.
Fruit Thinning
Apples, nectarines, peaches, and pears must be thinned early in the season to prevent overproduction, which can result in smaller fruit, increased tree breakage, and increased insect and disease problems. A heavy crop also reduces the chances for an adequate crop the following year. Fruit should be thinned when they are about the size of a nickel. Remove enough fruit so that the remaining ones are spaced about 4 to 6 inches apart along the branch. Even though it may look like very few fruit remain, the increased fruit size at harvest plus reduced risk of tree breakage and improved prospects for next year's crop will more than compensate for the reduced number of fruit.
We carry many different varieties of apples, peaches, pears, and plums, and somtimes pecans. If you are looking for certain varieties, hit the "Contact" link at the top of the page (above the purple tabs) and send us an email. We'll let you know what we have.
Muscadines & Bunch Grapes
Muscadine and scuppernong grapes are native North American grapes indigenous to the lower half of the United States. They are much larger individual berries than bunch grapes, but grow in smaller pods or bunches and have a thicker skin. Researchers have discovered the seed of muscadines to have cancer preventing properties, so many commercial growers now make more money selling the seeds to pharmaceutical companies than they make on other juice or wine products. Muscadines are purple or black and scuppernongs are bronze or golden. However, a scuppernong is a muscadine. Muscadines are a delicious, healthy, and easy grape to grow in your home vineyard.
Varieties we carry:
Albemarle: Black fruit are medium in size, produces in clusters and is very productive. Sugar Content 17.5%-18.5%. Ripens mid-season.
Carlos: Bronze fruits are small to medium in size, produces in clusters, ripens very evenly, and is a very heavy producer. Carlos is very vigorous and cold hardy. Sugar Content 15%-16%. Ripens early to mid-season.
Cowart: Black fruits are medium sized in large clusters. 17% sugar with an excellent flavor. The vine is very vigorous and produces many large clusters of medium size fruit. Ripens early season.
Dixie is a very good quality vigorously growing vine that produces large clusters of red muscadines. They are very sweet with 17% sugar and have a high yield. Ripens mid-season.
Scuppernong is well known and has been a summer treat for many generations. It produces a reliable crop of fine bronze fruit with 17-18% sugar year after year. The oldest cultivated variety of muscadines, dating back to the 1500's. Female- needs pollinator. Ripens mid to late season.
Southland: Black fruits have 17% sugar, medium-large fruit with excellent flavor. It grows vigorously and is disease resistant. Ripens mid-season.
Bunch Grapes
Concord: Fruit are medium in size, large clusters, round, bluish black color, green pulp, good flavor, and ripen mid to late season. Plants have vigorous growth habits and are very productive. Concord is the most popular variety of bunch grapes and is often used in juices.
Mars Seedless (Plant patent 5680): A release from the University of Arkansas. A vigorous, blue seedless grape. Among the hardiest of the seedless dark blue grapes, ripening in late August to early September. Fruits are slipskin, medium to large, sweet and juicy with flavor similar to Concord. Delicious fresh and superb for jams, jellies, wine and juice. Vigorous vines are productive and dependable with good resistance to several major diseases.
Click below for UGA's publication on growing grapes:
Planning a Vegetable Garden: Make the Most of Your Space
A well-planned garden is easier to care for. It saves time in the garden and is more productive than an unplanned garden. If the soil was not plowed or tilled in the fall, that must be done early in the spring.
Fertilizer probably will be needed.
Choose a Spot
The success of your garden depends greatly on the location. Although you may be limited in the choice of locations, consider the following:
Good soil - A loose, level, fertile, well-drained soil is best. If possible, avoid clays and very sandy soils unless you are able to buy
adequate organic matter.
Sunlight - Sunlight is necessary to produce healthy high-quality vegetables.
Avoid Trees or Shrubs - Trees and shrubs compete with garden crops for sunlight, plant food and moisture. Especially avoid walnut trees as they produce a toxin that prevents vegetables' growth.
Picking A Garden Plan
Consider the following points when planning your garden:
Garden Size - The size of your garden plot determines how many vegetables you can grow without over-crowding. Consider how much time you intend to spend in your garden, and how much garden produce you can use. Don't overplant.
For shady gardens use this rule of thumb. The sunniest spot goes to vegetables grown for their fruits or seeds such as corn, tomato, squash, cucumber, eggplant, peppers, beans, and peas.
Plants grown from their leaves or roots like beets, cabbage, lettuce, mustard, chard, spinach and turnips can be grown in partial shade.
For small gardens plant vegetables with a high yield per plant space such as bush snap beans, bush lima beans, Southern peas, leaf greens, tomatoes, and bell pepper plants.
Vegetables that take a lot of garden space for a long time and produce less are vining melons, squash, pumpkins and sweet corn.
How Will Your Garden Grow?
Locate vegetables according to their growing seasons. Separate the early plantings from the quick growing vegetables so that after harvesting, this space can be used for later plantings. To avoid shading plants, the taller crops should be to the north or west of shorter crops.
Successive Planting - This provides a continuous supply of vegetables. Don't plant too much of a crop at one time.
Two or three small plantings of leaf lettuce and radishes may be made one week apart in early spring with additional ones made in the fall.
Onion sets for green onions may be planted every two weeks until they are used up.
If space is available, there can be at least two plantings of beans, beets, broccoli, cabbage and carrots - one early in the spring for summer use, another in the summer for fall use and storage. Make several plantings of sweet corn.
Later crops can be planted on the same spot where earlier plants were harvested. Early harvested crops such as leaf lettuce, spinach, radishes, green onions, and peas can be followed by plantings of beans, beets, carrots, cabbage, sweet corn, late spinach, late leaf lettuce and turnips.
Spacing Between Rows - Proper spacing is important for plant growth, cultivation and efficient use of space. Check for individual requirements.
Seeds and Plants
Purchase seeds in advance in case you need to order them from a seed catalog. Don't use seeds left over from last year unless they were stored properly.
Most vegetable seeds except onion, parsley and parsnip can be stored. They should be kept in jars or in cans that are tightly sealed against moisture, insects, and rodents. Store in a cool place such as an unheated room or refrigerator.
Some plants such as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, peppers, and tomatoes do best when they are transplanted into the garden. These plants may be grown at home or purchased from a store. When buying transplants, avoid plants that are yellow, spindly or too large.
Controlling Insects
Scout the garden frequently to identify and treat insect damage before it becomes severe. Keep the garden free of weeds and mow the surrounding area. Plow under or remove plants that are finished producing. Do not leave them planted in the garden. Plant varieties that grow well in your area and follow proper fertilizing and watering recommendations. Some insects such as aphids and spider mites may be washed off the plants with a garden hose. The tomato hornworms or insect egg masses may be hand-picked from the plant to prevent further damage. When buying an insecticide, read the label to see if it is recommended for the insect and plant you are treating. Follow the directions. When using chemical control for sucking insects, spray the underneath of the leaves as well as upper surfaces. Insecticides are most effective if used before large numbers of insects take over the plants.
Bees are necessary pollinators- without them flowers don't turn into fruit! Remember them when you are spraying the garden. Foraging bees are not aggresive, it's only when you threaten their hive that they become angry.
Baked Squash with Blueberries
3 acorn squash
1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen blueberries
1/2 tart apple, peeled and diced
6 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar
6 teaspoons butter
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Cut squash in half lengthwise and remove fibers and seeds.
In a medium bowl, mix together blueberries, diced apple, brown sugar, and butter. Fill squash halves with blueberry mixture.
Place in an ungreased casserole dish; add 1/2 cup water around the squash. Cover and bake 50 to 60 minutes. remove cover and bake another 10 minutes or until squash is tender. Remove from oven and serve immediately.
Makes 6 Servings.
Fruit Pizza
1 (20-ounce) package refrigerated cookie dough
1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, room temperature
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract or other flavoring (almond, orange, or lemon)
Fresh blueberries, raspberries, mandarin orange sections,
seedless grapes, strawberry halves, kiwi fruit slices, (or any other fruit you want), well drained
1/2 cup orange, peach, or apricot preserves
1 tablespoon water
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
Line an ungreased 14-inch pizza pan with cookie dough rolled out thinly like pizza dough. Bake 12 minutes or until light brown; remove from oven and cool on a wire rack.
In a medium bowl, combine cream cheese, sugar, and vanilla extract or other flavoring; spread over cookie crust. Arrange fruit over cream cheese layer in any design you want (use your imagination).
In a small saucepan over very low heat, make a glaze by heating preserves and water. Brush glaze over fruit, making sure to cover the fruit that will turn dark. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
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